(11-20-2015, 12:31 PM)coffeethecat Wrote: Hi: Need some help. I'm about to winterize my 1165. Need to know a few things please:
1) where are the bypass valves for the water heater?
2) those 3 valves located on the backside of the rear storage compartment - there's 3 that I can see - what does each one control?
3) under the kitchen sink is what looks to be a shutoff or bypass valve for the filtered water faucet. But it just turns and turns with no dead stop either way. Is this normal or do yo think it's broken?
Any other winterization advice for the 1165 would be greatly appreciated.
Thanx .....
I just bought a used 2014 1165 and had the same questions ...
1) The bypass valve for the hot water heater is accessible from the galley. Facing forward, below the two cabinet doors is a third "door". It doesn't have a handle and it looks and feels like a wood panel that doesn't open. But it does open - you just have to pull hard on it and it pops right off, exposing the pipes going to the hot water heater including the bypass valve.
2) I removed the wood panel in the rear storage compartment so I could see the fresh water tank (and also so I can fit my skis down there). The bottom-most of those three pipes drains the fresh water tank. The other two are the low point drain valves for the hot and cold water. I don't know which is which but I don't think it matters.
3) I haven't removed the water filter yet so don't know about that.
For me the hardest thing was to find the winterizing valve. In hindsight it seems obvious that this valve (and hose) would be right next to the water pump, and they are. The problem is the water pump is accessed via the *front* of the camper which is inaccessible when your camper is sitting on your truck. My intention was to never remove the camper from the truck and in this case you don't have to remove it entirely, but you have to jack it up and move the truck forward about 2 feet, enough to open the access door and reach the winterizing valve and short hose. Also it turns out that hose is the perfect length to fit into a 1-gallon container of RV anti-freeze. Coincidence? See attached photo.
Another thing I learned is the rear of the camper needs to be slightly higher than the front (I know you're not supposed to do that) so that the tiny amount (1 gallon) of antifreeze you pour into the already-drained fresh water tank can actually get to the pump. Otherwise the pump just pumps air because the antifreeze is pooled at the back of the tank away from the pump intake.
